Lisbon

Lisbon is the most beautiful capital in Europe — and the most underpriced. Seven hills, pastel-coloured buildings, and a light that photographers travel from across the world to capture. The food is extraordinary. The wine is extraordinary. And Park Bar, on the rooftop of a car park in Bairro Alto, has the best terrace view of any bar in Europe.

TRAM 28 AT SUNRISE

Tram 28 is the most famous tram route in Lisbon — a yellow vintage tram that climbs through the Alfama neighbourhood, past the São Jorge Castle, and down through Graça to Martim Moniz. Take it at sunrise, before the tourists arrive. The light on the azulejo tiles at 7am is extraordinary.

THE FOOD

Belcanto on Largo de São Carlos holds two Michelin stars and is the best restaurant in Portugal. José Avillez's modern Portuguese cuisine — built around the country's extraordinary seafood, olive oil, and wine — is technically extraordinary and deeply rooted in Portuguese food culture. For something more casual, A Cevicheria in Príncipe Real serves the best ceviche in Europe, built around Portuguese Atlantic fish.

THE BARS

Park Bar is on the rooftop of a multi-storey car park in Bairro Alto — take the lift to the top floor and emerge onto a terrace with a 360-degree view of Lisbon, the Tagus, and the Cristo Rei statue across the river. The cocktails are excellent. The view is extraordinary. Go at sunset. For natural wine, Garrafeira Nacional on Rua de Santa Justa has the best selection in Portugal.

ALFAMA & FADO

Alfama is the oldest neighbourhood in Lisbon — a maze of narrow streets, tiled buildings, and fado houses that has survived earthquakes, invasions, and gentrification. The best fado experience in Lisbon is at Tasca do Chico on Rua do Diário de Notícias: a small, informal house where the fado is performed by locals, not for tourists. Book in advance.