Mumbai & Delhi

India doesn't do subtlety. It's a full-frontal assault on the senses, and nowhere is this more true than in its two titans: Mumbai and Delhi. To compare them is to compare a brash, sea-sprayed film star with a wise, ancient emperor. Mumbai, with its Art Deco curves and relentless hustle, is all about the now. Delhi, a sprawling tapestry of Mughal tombs and Lutyens' grand boulevards, carries the weight and wisdom of centuries. I came looking for a simple verdict on which is 'better,' and left with a profound appreciation for their magnificent, maddening duality.

THE BARS

In Mumbai, the drinking scene is as much about the view as the cocktail. You haven't lived until you've had a gin and tonic at Aer, the Four Seasons' rooftop bar, watching the sun bleed into the Arabian Sea. For something more grounded, The Bombay Canteen in Lower Parel serves up inventive, India-inspired cocktails that are as delicious as they are clever. Delhi's answer is the sophisticated speakeasy. Sidecar in Greater Kailash is a temple to the craft, a world-class establishment that could hold its own in New York or London. For a more raucous night, the back lanes of Hauz Khas Village still offer a certain chaotic charm, a relic of a bygone party era.

THE RESTAURANTS

Dining in India is a competitive sport. In Delhi, the undisputed champion is Indian Accent. Chef Manish Mehrotra's inventive approach to Indian cuisine is nothing short of genius – the blue cheese naan is a revelation. For a more traditional, and frankly, life-changing experience, the original Bukhara at the ITC Maurya serves North-West Frontier tandoori dishes that have been perfected over decades. Mumbai's culinary scene is more eclectic. The Table in Colaba offers a farm-to-table experience with a global sensibility, while a pilgrimage to Britannia & Co. for their Parsi berry pulav is a non-negotiable rite of passage. And let's not forget the street food – the vada pav in Mumbai and the chaat in Delhi are worth the trip alone.

THE EXPERIENCE

The 'best' experience is simply surrendering to the beautiful chaos. It's the sensory overload of Chandni Chowk market in Old Delhi, a dizzying labyrinth of spice merchants, wedding outfitters, and sizzling street food stalls. It's a sunset stroll along Marine Drive in Mumbai, the 'Queen's Necklace,' as the city's lights begin to twinkle against the fading sky. It's getting lost in the history of Humayun's Tomb, a precursor to the Taj Mahal, and feeling the pulse of modern India in the art galleries of Kala Ghoda. The ultimate moment? Finding myself in the middle of a Holi festival celebration, covered head-to-toe in colored powder, a joyous, anarchic explosion of life.