Edinburgh

Edinburgh is the most dramatically situated city in Britain. A medieval castle on a volcanic rock. A mile-long Royal Mile descending to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Arthur's Seat — an ancient volcano — rising above the city to the east. And the best whisky scene in the world. Gerald has been coming here for years and it never loses its power.

ARTHUR'S SEAT AT DAWN

The single best thing you can do in Edinburgh is climb Arthur's Seat at dawn. The 45-minute hike from Holyrood Park takes you to the summit of an ancient volcano 251 metres above the city. The view — Edinburgh Castle to the west, the Firth of Forth to the north, the Pentland Hills to the south — is extraordinary in the early morning light. Bring a flask of coffee.

THE WHISKY

The Scotch Whisky Experience on Castlehill has the world's largest collection of Scotch whisky — over 3,500 bottles — and a tasting programme that covers every region of Scotland. For a more intimate experience, The Scotch Malt Whisky Society on Queen Street is a members' club that bottles single cask whiskies under codenames rather than distillery names. The tasting notes are extraordinary. Day membership is available.

THE FOOD

The Kitchin on Commercial Quay in Leith holds a Michelin star and serves Scottish cuisine built around local ingredients — Orkney scallops, Borders lamb, Perthshire venison — with French technique. Tom Kitchin's 'From Nature to Plate' philosophy is not a marketing slogan; it's evident in every dish. For something more casual, the Fishmarket in Newhaven serves the best fish and chips in Edinburgh.

THE OLD TOWN

The Royal Mile — the street that runs from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse — is the spine of the Old Town. The closes (narrow alleyways) that run off the Royal Mile are the best way to explore: each one has its own history, its own character, and its own surprises. Advocates Close, Riddle's Court, and Mary King's Close are the best.