ESPRESSO ON THE RIVIERA: WHERE TO FIND A PROPER COFFEE IN MONACO

Monaco is two kilometres from the Italian border. The coffee culture reflects this -- espresso is taken seriously, served small, and drunk standing at the bar if you are local and sitting at a table if you are not. The Italian influence means that the standard of espresso is generally high, and that ordering a "large coffee" will get you a look of mild contempt from the barman.

The best coffee in Monaco is not at the most famous establishments. The Café de Paris on Casino Square serves a perfectly acceptable espresso, but you are paying for the location, not the coffee. The Hotel de Paris serves coffee in the lobby that is excellent, but again: you are paying for the room.

The best coffee is at the smaller places -- the neighbourhood cafés in the Condamine district, the pastry shops in Monaco-Ville, the places that locals actually use.

**Cova Montenapoleone** (Avenue des Beaux-Arts) is the best coffee in Monaco for the combination of quality and atmosphere. The cortado is excellent. The almond croissant is worth the detour. The room is beautiful. It is also the most expensive coffee in Monaco, which is saying something.

**Le Petit Café Robuchon** (Place du Casino) is the café arm of Joël Robuchon's Monaco empire, and the coffee is exactly what you would expect from a Robuchon establishment: precise, consistent, and served with a small piece of chocolate. The espresso is a single-origin blend that changes seasonally. The pastries are extraordinary.

**Amù Monte Carlo** (Avenue des Spélugues) is the local favourite -- a neighbourhood café that serves excellent espresso at prices that are merely expensive rather than extraordinary. The terrace is small but pleasant. The barista knows what he is doing. The clientele is a mixture of locals and hotel guests who have found their way off the main tourist circuit.

**Just Gerald Says:** Stand at the bar at Amù. Order a doppio. Drink it in two minutes. This is how Monaco drinks coffee.